Tragedy and Triumph: A Quick Insight Into Croatia
When we arrived in Croatia, it was a beautiful spring day in May. Our initial plan was to drive the quickest route through the country to our next destination, Bosnia and Herzegovina. With our Schengen allowance running out, we needed to reset the clock outside the EU. It meant postponing our plans to immerse ourselves fully into enchanting Croatia.
The fleeting visit allowed us a glimpse into Croatian heritage. We experienced a journey of two halves with striking differences. In just twenty-four hours, we went from a lively, vibrant beginning to a sobering ending, marked by the devastation of conflict and showing few signs of recovery.
We began our journey by crossing the Hungarian / Croatian border, which was now free of checks since Croatia became part of the Schengen Area on the 1st January 2023. However, a few miles ahead, the police were waiting and pulled us over shortly after arriving. After a quick check of our passports and vehicle documents, we were on our way.
Our next stop was to find a laundrette. Doing laundry may seem tedious, but it often leads to unexpected discoveries you might otherwise have passed by. Friendly attendants and locals enrich the experience by sharing their knowledge. This time, the charming town of Virovitica was the hidden gem.
Castle Pejačević, Virovitica, Croatia
Virovitica is a small city in northeastern Croatia, in Slavonia, a historical region bordering Hungary, Serbia, and Bosnia & Herzegovina. Virovitica gained a prestigious role during the Middle Ages when Coloman Duke of Slavonia issued a charter in 1234, entitling it as a free market town. A status Zagreb, Croatia’s capital, did not receive until 1242 when King Béla IV issued his Golden Bull.
The laundrette owner recommended a walk around the dog-friendly park. Our two are always up for extra exploring, and we had half an hour to spare while waiting for the washing. The park was a short stroll away and surrounded the recently renovated Pejačević Castle.
The gardens had also undergone improvements, with trees, shrubs, and ornamental plants planted. In May, the City Park’s flowers complemented the castle’s colours beautifully, showcasing a lovely array of pink hues.
Historically known as ‘Little Venice,’ Virovitica was once home to 16 bridges in its centre. As a tribute to its history, the city reconstructed five wooden bridges in its restoration project, each featuring a unique name and tale, including the Bridge of Love, the Bridge of Mirrors, and the Bridge of Music.
The laundry run took longer than expected, which is usually the case. As a result, we decided to alter our plans and look for somewhere to stay on the Croatian side of the border with Bosnia. We found the Jasenovac Memorial Site, built on the former Jasenovac Concentration Camp.
Established in April 1941 by the Ustašas, the fascist leaders of the Independent State of Croatia. They had received the full support of Nazi Germany in pursuing their goal to carry out genocide against Serbs, Jews, Roma, and anybody else who opposed their authoritarian rule.
From the arrival of the first prisoners on 23rd August 1941 to its dismantling in 1945, the network of camps served as transit, forced labour, and death camps. The number of victims remains unknown, with some estimates of around 800,000.
A reinforced concrete Flower Memorial now stands on the former Jasenovac Camp III (Brickworks), with railway sleepers for a path leading to the monument. Hollows in the ground mark the location of the camp buildings, and inverted grassy mounds are graves and torture sites. There is a museum describing the horrors of the camp, and the train used to transport prisoners is part of the memorial.
Jasenovac is a sobering place and a stark reminder of the atrocities of war, reinforced by the damage and occupation of Jasenovac and the Memorial Site on 8 October 1991, during the Homeland War, or Bosnian War as it is known, outside Croatia.
After the museum and memorial restoration, scars remain on the walls, similar to those of many houses in the area. We expected to witness war damage in Bosnia but were unaware of its spread into Croatia. It is unsettling to see numerous holes in a house, especially surrounding the upper-floor windows of what was once someone’s family home.
Visiting historical landmarks like Jasenovac is harrowing, and knowing whether to share the sombre sides of our travels is always tricky. Our life is on the road, and not all sunshine and roses. We feel obliged to explore a country with warts and all and value learning how a nation’s history shapes its culture and people.
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