When we arrived in France, we felt the familiar tingle of excitement, the small stomach churn of the unknown, and we sighed in contentment. As soon as you roll off the tunnel, there is a feeling of space and welcome. France is a mecca for motorhomes, with many places to park, plenty of motorhome facilities and miles of open roads to explore. 

I say roll off the tunnel, that part we manage. It is the steep ramp up to the flyover over the train tracks that Wolf is not keen on when starting from cold. We discovered that in Italy later when Wolfie decided he could not make it up a steep hill first thing in the morning. He just gave up, and we had no choice but to roll back down and try again.

Wolfie is getting on a little. He likes to limber up slowly in the morning and feel the oil lubricate his joints before setting off.

When we pull into France, we never have a plan, only a general direction of which way to head, whether south to Portugal or north to Scandinavia. This time it was southeast to Luxembourg and then onto Italy.

We spent our first night parked alongside the Dérivation de la Colme. A 38km (23.61 miles) stretch of canal. The towpath was perfect for the guys to let off steam, although we didn’t walk the entire distance.

A Time for Gongoozling

Gongoozling: The activity of watching boats and activities on canals. Trainspotting, only spotting boats instead.

We stayed a couple of days; the weather was good, and we enjoyed being gongoozlers for a while. Watching the barges chug up and down the canal was fascinating. The canals and barges are much bigger than we have in the UK, and cargo includes coal, scrap metal and storage containers.  

It’s good to know our fondness for canal life hasn’t waned. Following the canals was a theme for the next couple of weeks as we unearthed the area’s mining history.

Other than croissants and baguettes, another trend continued during our journey in France. It was the familiar early alarm clock of the cockerel, followed by church bells.

Our next stop was at the pretty Gare d’eau de Guarbecque. We parked up among parking bays set among cherry trees in full blossom. Our back garden for the night was alongside the Canal d’Aire à la Bassée, which runs along the southern limit of the Pas-de-Calais coal basin.

Initially, the area was a stop-off point for barges transporting coal. The area is now an attractive park area for walking, picnicking, and fishing, and there is a small fitness area.

A Brief History Lesson in Mining

However, as you explore deeper into the surrounding area’s history, you can observe the evolving past of the Nord-Pas de Calais Mining Basin. An area recognised in 2012 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site 2012. 

As you journey through the landscape, a 120 km (74.5 miles) stretch along a coal seam with 109 sites to visit. The remains of such a large-scale industry of former times are evident as you pass infrastructure and mining villages. Large terrils that are coal mountains appear as pyramids out of the otherwise flat countryside. 

There are signs that the status of being a UNESCO site positively affects the region. There is a move towards sustainable tourism. The Terrils des Jumeaux at Haillicourt is one of those locations. If you appreciate industrial history and want to discover more about the mining region, the slag heaps are a fascinating visit.

Management of the site now protects the piles of mining waste and encourages plants and wildlife. We took advantage of the motorhome parking provided and spent the night before exploring the local area.

There is something strangely attractive about the transformation and success in uniting a past that once left an ugly scar into something more inviting. 

Grapevines and Slag Heaps

There are 389 steps to a viewpoint at the top of one of the slag heaps, with a surprisingly impressive vista. The climb is steep but worthy of the view across the mining basin dotted with remnants of mining history. 

If you fancy a glass of charbonnay, a play on words, ‘charbon’ means coal in French. Grown on an old waste heap is France’s most northerly vineyard. The steep sides of a spoil heap mean the Chardonnay grapes have to be harvested by hand.

We spent just about nine days travelling through this region. Previously, we would travel quickly, having to see as much as possible. We would have passed on by places like this. Wolf’s speed suits us. Changing how we travel has meant discovering more and finding hidden gems.