Cheb Main Square

Our first night’s destination was the Medieval town of Cheb. Formerly known as Eger, the city has a rich history dating back to its first mention in 1061. It was prosperous due to its proximity to Bohemia, Bavaria, and Saxony. However, the location had also been disadvantageous, and the town experienced much violence over the years.

Today, the city is well-preserved with its medieval square, stunning architecture, and colourful buildings. Apart from a few other tourists admiring the square, the town’s heart was peaceful.

Our park up overlooked the old city’s walls and a large modern-looking sports complex with a running track, tennis and basketball courts, and a skate park. Although, scooters appeared to be the trend and not skateboards.

The following morning, we walked along the Ohře River to the Skalka Dam, through a park with seating, a maze, and a woodland walk, until we eventually reached a viewing tower with views across the river.

Life on the road isn’t always full of adventure and romantic walks. Sometimes it can be rocky. Hiccups happen. The following morning when the heating was on, there was, suddenly, a loud bang. A fog of thick black smoke drifted past the window, and a strong smell of fumes filled the inside. The heating had gone kaput. With a frosty forecast, it was imperative Paul fixed it, and it took the whole day.

After the emergency repair, we wandered through Czechia, heading towards the Bohemia National Park. En route, we went into the Ore Mountains to Klínovec, and its highest peak at 1,244 metres, with spectacular views. Unfortunately, not for us, we experienced thick fog and snow.

A cold shower tonight!

We spotted a spring and always take the opportunity to fill up with water. We replenished the tanks with icy-cold water straight from the mountain. It was a shock for our shower that night, which we insist on having in cold water. Last May, in sunny Germany, it seemed a good idea. Now we are not convinced. There is a train of thought that it’s good for us, which we keep reminding ourselves of.

Anyway, I digress. We left the snowy mountains in search of somewhere warmer. Although Paul had fixed the heating, we were doubtful it would last, so we were trying to conserve its life.

We drove through small villages and tiny lanes until we arrived in the middle of nowhere. It was a Saturday evening, and no one was around. It was chilly, but the sun shone, and the dogs were happy. All was perfect.

It was a frosty start the following morning. We set off with our backpacks for a walk and to find a breakfast spot. We started at the top of a plateau, experiencing 360-degree views, and headed downhill into the forest.

We merrily walked around a corner and faced a sounder of boar snuffling the ground. We spotted them seconds before they saw us. They immediately took flight, leaving a mist of steam in their wake. For us, with dogs, seeing wildlife doesn’t often happen. So, we get excited when we spot something wild. Our last wildlife encounter was a marmot in the Dolomites. He stood to attention on a rock, sounding the alarm that we were trespassing into his territory.

When we reached the Bohemian Switzerland National Park, it was beautiful. However, the area is clearly bustling during the main season, when there is a problem with parking. Everywhere, there were no parking signs and warnings of being towed away. It looked like motorhome parking was €12.00, so we decided to enjoy a drive instead. In hindsight, there might have been parking along the river.

Once out of the national park, there was an abundance of stopovers and enchanting places to visit. We stumbled across ones like the Rock Chapel of Our Lady of Lourdes in Modlivý Důl, meaning prayer valley. In this magical place, surrounded by steep rock sides and trees, is a chapel hollowed out of the surrounding sandstone. Initially, Countess Cervelli ordered a wooden chapel to be built in 1772, eventually replaced by a rock chapel as a replica of the cave in Lourdes.

Another night was spent in Úštěk, surrounded by numerous walks. We chose a route to Helfenburk Castle, which treated us to beautiful views and a castle built on rocks undergoing restoration. It was a perfect stop for a breakfast feast of cheese and sausages. I think a shopping trip is due.

Back at Wolf, several groups of schoolchildren were litter-picking. There was very little. We had already picked the few bits in the car park, but the children had headed into the fringes of the woods. During our time in Czechia, we only observed a small amount of rubbish. So, whatever the country is doing, whether using a bin or taking rubbish home, it works. On this trip, so far, we have experienced the same tidiness in all the countries.

Our first week’s introduction to Czechia was fantastic, and the country kept delivering.